Diaries of Christopher Tatham Elmslie, Vol 1, 1860-1884 plus 1907-1909

(Draft Transcribed by Malcolm Kenwyn Elmslie.)

Diary of Christopher Tatham Elmslie

1860 to ….

— 1 —

The first four years of my life were passed at sea with my father in the ships “Albuera” and “Cospatrick”, making voyages to Bombay, Calcutta, Columbo, Kurrachee, and various other places. The “Cospatrick” was also doing transport work in China during the war in ’62.

In ’64, my mother, who had hitherto accompanied my father in his voyages, settled down with us children in Greenwich at 9 Park Place, as we were getting too many to continue going to sea, and we lived happily in this house for some years, nothing of any moment occurring during that time.

In 1867 my father took command of a new ship called the “Sobraon” of 2131 tons register, the largest sailing ship afloat at that time, and from that date he was running regularly in the Sydney and Melbourne trade; his brother Alec took on the “Cospatrick”.

I made my first appearance at school at a Miss Lauds [?] in Greenwich the latter part of ’69, but after a few months, left there and went to a Mr. Bell’s at Blackheath, where I stayed for the next three years. My schooling was then put a stop to by a serious attack of rheumatic ^{[page 2]} fever, which laid me up for four months, and left me so weak that it was some years before I really got over it. On my convalescence, as going to school was out of the question, and my mother wished for another voyage, she, Edie, Archie, May, and myself sailed in the “Sobraon” for Melbourne, July ’72. Alec and James were left at Poplar with my Uncle Robert Tatham.

We made the voyage to Melbourne in 70 days, lay there 9 weeks and then sailed for London, calling at S^t Helena for two days, and arriving home the end of ’73. We had the following gentlemen for officers, Messrs Seaborne, Parsons, and Kirkpatrick, and apprentices, Garland, Beattie, Raby, Lewis, Stowe, &c.

Soon after our arrival at home, we had the misfortune to loose our dear mother, who died on the 24 May, eight days after the birth of my sister Mary. I felt her loss deeply and have never forgotten her good teachings, which have had a great influence over my life. She was buried at Nunhead Cemetery, the 30^th May ’73.

After her death, my grandmother and Aunt Gussie kept house for my father; we were living at Manäar House in Greenwich, my father’s own property.^{[page 3]}

Since coming home, Archie, James and myself had been going to school at the Rev. I. N. Smith’s in Greenwich, my cousins Duncan and Chris Tatham also being there.

In the summer of ’74, and shortly before going to sea again, my father broke up his household, sent Edie and the younger children to a Miss Price’s at S^t Leonards, and made arrangements for my brothers and myself to spend our holidays at the same place.

At Christmas of this year we received the terrible news that the “Cospatrick” had been burnt at sea, and my Uncle Alec, his wife and son lost.

The ship was bound for New Zealand with emigrants, and when about half way out, in the Southern Ocean, caught fire, by what means is not known. The emigrants, it appears, became panic stricken, and prevented the crew from lowering the boats, the result being that only two boats got away. These were in charge of the 1^st and 2^nd officers and were crowded with people, about 35 in each. Separated in the night by a strong breeze the 1^st officer’s boat has never been heard of, and no doubt, must have foundered, the occupants of the 2^nd mate’s drifted about for eleven days, without any food or ^{[page 4]} water, and the boat when picked up by a Liverpool ship, out of thirty five persons who had left the “Cospatrick” in her, had only five left. Two of these died soon after, both mad, thus leaving three rescued, the 2^nd mate, McDonald, and two seamen, out of over five hundred people.

McDonald states that my uncle declined to save himself, and he was seen to jump overboard with his wife when the fire reached them, the doctor doing the same with the boy. He left two young daughters, not very well provided for.

This was fearful news, and my father who heard it in Melbourne, was greatly affected by it.

Soon after his arrival in Melbourne, my father married a Miss Cheyne, a young lady who had gone out as a passenger with him.

They arrived home in the “Sobraon” again in June, and shortly afterwards took a house at Penge having all of us children to live with them. We boys had a good time of it during the midsummer holidays, the Crystal Palace with its many attractions being close to the house.

In September, my father was off to sea again with his wife, leaving us children at school in different places, my two younger brothers and ^{[page 5]} self still at Mr. Smith’s. We three boys spent the holidays by ourselves in lodgings at Bow [?].

The “Sobraon” arrived home once more in June ’76, and my parents again took a furnished house, this time at South Kensington, in the Earlscourt Road, we children joining them in the Midsummer holidays.

On this last voyage our numbers had been increased by the arrival of a little half sister Coral.

I had now left school for good and my only thought was to go to sea, which was greatly against my father’s wishes. He, however, eventually gave in to me, remarking that I could leave after a time, if I did not like it, and I signed indentures as apprentice for four years to Devitt and Moore of London, 26 July ’76.

We sailed from home in the “Sobraon” in early October, my step-mother and Coral accompanying us.

The officers of the ship were as follows, viz: [?]: Mr. Nicholson 1st, F. Nutley [?] 2nd, R. Hoare 3rd, and C. May 4th, with apprentices Arnold, Warren, Miller, Bartholomew, Lambert, Stretton, Hodgens [?], and Elmslie.

The only event of any interest on the trip was a call at Tristan d’ Cunha.

This island is one of three, bearing about W.S.W. of the Cape of Good Hope, ^{[page 6]} a long way from the mainland. At the time I write of, it had a population of about eighty, the descendents of a few sailors and Caffie Kaffir women who settled there in the early part of the present century. They reckon themselves British, although quite independent of any country.

Money had no value at all to these people, but they readily bartered sheep and fish, bird and seal skins for sugar, needles, cotton &c. When we left the island, my chest and bunk were full of very fine items of various kinds, and all my clothes minus buttons. Most of us apprentices presented a rather ragged appearance until we reached Melbourne, as our supplies of clothing and mending materials were well nigh exhausted in this trading.

Christmas saw us at Melbourne after a run of seventy days, including stoppages. The casualties in the trip were three deaths only. There were also two births, one of them, my half brother Noël.

I worked by the ship most of the time in port, trucking wheat, rolling wool, painting, working coal &c, but got away for a ten days holidays which I passed at Port Phillip Island with some friends, having very good sport, coursing horses and shooting.

We left for home, via Cape of Good ^{[page 7]} Hope early in February, and after a run of about seventy days, reached S^t. Helena, where we made a short stay, a pleasant break in the voyage.

Shortly after dropping anchor in the early morning Lambert and I got leave and went ashore with a young M^r. Bruce, son of the harbour master. This gentleman had also invited the officers of some Yankee whalers ashore, and had horses ready to mount us all.

We left town at 9 am, and got back about 8 pm after visiting most parts of the island, including, of course, Napoleon’s grave and Longwood. The last is rather disappointing, and not what one is led to expect from descriptions. The house is large and quite empty, and looks very common. In the death room there is a bust of Buonoparte [sic], few wreaths of immortelles, nothing else. An old French soldier looks after the building and also the graves.

Just after leaving Longwood, Bruce met with a sad accident, which marred the pleasures of the day, breaking his leg by striking a post, when galloping through a gateway. We took him back to Longwood, and left him in the Doctor’s hands, as comfortable as he could be made under the circumstances, and then hurried back to the town and off to the ship which was weighing anchor.

^{[page 8]}

On my next visit to the island, I learnt that he was laid up for six months. He is also lame for life.

The vessel arrived in London again, May ’77, one hundred days out from Melbourne. We apprentices were free as soon as the ship was fast in the dock, and of course made off to our respective houses as quickly as trains could take us.

For some weeks we all stayed in lodgings in Poplar, but afterwards moved down to Bedford, taking a house in Ashburnham Road.

My father’s idea in settling in this town was to give my brothers the benefit of the fine schools there.

At the end of September again my father and I were off to sea once more and arrived in Melbourne about Christmas time.

The ship’s officers were much the same as in the previous trip. Nicholson had left, and the other three had each got a step. In the berth, there were some changes, our list being as follows, viz [?] Arnold, Bartholomew, Hodgens, Lambert, Stretton, Elmslie, Dawson and Lane.

This stay in port, Lambert and I obtained three weeks leave and went around to Sydney in the “City of Adelaide.” We had plenty of money at first, so stayed at the leading hotel, “Petty’s”, until the cash got low, ^{[page 9]} when we put up at the “Post Office”, where we met a passenger V—, who was making the round voyage with us, and together we had great times, visiting every place in and around Sydney, and going over the Zig Zag Railway, past Bowenfells [sic]. With all this dissipation, we both spent far more than we ought to have done and exceeded our leave considerably.

Getting back to Melbourne, we turned up on board our ship one morning early, and went to work as if nothing had happened, but it was no use, we were called aft, had our leave stopped and extra work given us. I am afraid, however, that we did not mind much, as we had had our fling, and spent all our money.

March again saw us on our way home, where we arrived, June ’78, ninety eight days out, including one spent at S^t Helena.

On this voyage we had altogether five deaths, one birth and one marriage, the latter between a steward and a steerage passenger.

While we had been away, my mother and the children had moved into a house in the Brunham [?] Road Bedford, a change for the better. I also found another brother at home, making our number ten.

The next four months, I passed at Bedford, amusing myself, boating, ^{[page 10]} fishing, bicycling &c. and was quite glad when September came round, and we were off to sea again.

This time the officers were the same, but the boys as follows, viz [?] Lambert, Elmslie, Stretton, Dawson, Graham &c.

We succeeded in calling at Tristan D’Acunha this voyage, where I again invested in skins. This island is generally hidden in fogs, and as the currents in its vicinity are dangerous, it is but rarely visited.

This passage was rather longer than the preceeding [sic] ones, owing to adverse winds off the Leeuwin, in consequence of which, we did not reach Melbourne until after Christmas Day.

Since three weeks after our arrival, Lambert and myself obtained leave and went across to Hobart, with strict injunction to be back within ten days. We went over in the “Rotorua”, at this time one of the best of the Union steamers.

For the first few days, we lived with Captain Seaborne of the barque Windward”, an old chief officer of my father’s, who was extremely kind to us during our stay in Hobart, introducing us to many nice people and in particular, to two young ladies, the Misses H—. I am afraid, that after the last introduction, the “Windward” ^{[page 11]} did not see much of us, what with moonlight picnics in the harbour, excursions up Mount Wellington, and other outings.

After we had been in Hobart about a week, we met a squatter named Terry, when dining at the “Ship” hotel one day, who invited us to his station, about eighty miles up country. We took him at his word, and left by coach next morning at daylight, for New Norfolk, where we arrived about noon, and where we met M^r T—.

Lunch over and a visit paid to the famous salmon ponds we started off in our [?] [ ] trap to the station, arriving there about dusk.

As this run had been taken up for a good many years, the homestead and surrounding had not the unpleasant new appearance so common to places in the Colonies. A find large garden, full of every description of fruit trees, and flowers surrounded the house, making it look quite homely.

We stayed here for eight days shooting kangaroos &c. and trout fishing in the rivers Clyde and Jordan, and sometimes riding into the nearest township, Hamilton, about eleven miles away. I should say that Scotchmen were the pioneers of this district, for really from the names of the townships, rivers and stations, one could fancy oneself in Scotland.

^{[page 12]} M^r. T was very loath to let us go, delaying from day to day with the excuse that he could not spare anyone to drive us in, in which we acquiesced readily, though not without some thoughts of what would happen, when we reported ourselves on the “Sobraon” again. At last we got back to Hobart, and left the next day by the “Tararua” taking a very weeping farewell of the Misses H— who came to see us off, accompanied by their mother. They had wished to introduce us to their father as well, both the parents having come to Hobart on a visit, during our stay up country, but we managed to avoid that. From our behaviour generally, we thought the parents might not see things in the same light as their daughters, the mother we were rather shy of meeting, but we could not stand the father at any price. I need hardly mention that the weeping was somewhat one sided, as I am afraid it generally is in the love affairs of sailors.

Speaking of love affairs, reminds me of the old boatswain we had on the “Sobraon”, who had a wife and family at each end. On leaving the South Dock, London, the old fellow used to take a tender parting of his London wife and children, soon brightening up however, when he was welcomed by his Melbourne family at the ^{[page 13]} other end. Possibly the two wives were not aware of each other’s existence, if they were, they bore the knowledge well enough; at any rate there was a safe distance between them.

Once on board our ship we naturally got into trouble again, at breaking our leave the second time, and spent nearly all the remaining stay in port, with but little liberty, and with plenty of extra work.

I was luckily enough known to get introduced to a Miss Emily C— a day or so after rejoining the ship, and as she lived not very far away, I was quite content to dispense with visits to Melbourne. When I could not see her, she came to me.

We sailed for home again, early in March, full of passengers and cargo as usual, and when about three weeks out had some excitement on finding that our cargo was on fire.

The main hatch was being opened to get up some baggage, when the men were driven back by volumes of smoke rushing up. All hands at once started passing water down, and after a couple of hours, we mastered the fire, and discovered it had originated amongst some bales of wool. These must have been damp when put on board and ignited spontaneously. The affair seemed worse than it really was, owing to ^{[page 14]} the dense smoke, there was very little flame.

A few weeks after this we arrived at Cape Town.

The Zulu war was now at its height and we had put in on the chance of finding a market for meats and flour, of which we had a quantity on board. Luckily for my father – he did well out of it – the Commissariat of the British forces was very short of these articles, and at once bought all we had.

Discharging took some eight days, three of which I passed at M^r James Bissett’s. This gentleman – a distant connection of mine – lived at Claremont, some few miles out of town, not a great distance from the celebrated vineyards of Wynberg, which I visited, as well as all other places of interest around, including some ostrich farms.

In town, matters were very lively, owing to the forming of several troops of Irregular Horse, and the departure of some of these for the front.

These corps had men of all callings enrolled, and some of the shops in the bay lost several hands, we however, only had one desert. The men were attracted by the high pay offering, and also by the novelty of the thing.

^{[page 15]} An old shipmate of mine joined the Lumsdale [?] Horse, and served creditably right through the campaign. He received several wounds, and finally met his death by “assegais” in almost the last engagement that took place.

We soon left these stirring scenes behind us, under weigh for S^t Helena, where we arrived in ten days from the Cape.

The day we reached here, I had the good fortune to save a person from drowning.

About 5 pm, a lot of us were in the water swimming about; I had just dived off the side and was making for the others, who were some distance away, when I heard someone sing out for help just behind me. Turning round, I saw one of the ships boys, Walters by name, sinking, and at once made towards him. Catching him, as he disappeared below the surface, I was not careful enough to keep clear of his hands, for he got such a grip of my left arm that I was pulled down with him, and only got free by the merest chance, coming to the surface almost suffocated. Walters rose again a few seconds after I did, and this time I got hold by the collar of his shirt from behind, holding him up safely until a boat came and picked him up. I don’t know what possessed him to enter the water, for he was almost unable to ^{[page 16]} swim.

After watering and landing a little cargo, we sailed for London, which we reached without any event of importance occurring early in June ’79.

On this voyage I nearly came to grief one night when we were shortening sail. I was on the Upper fore-topsail yard, with several other hands, close reefing the topsail, when owing to the sail being badly “spilled”, [?] it flapped back and knocked me off the footrope, which however I luckily caught as I fell. To swing myself up from this was easy and the work of a moment. Had I fallen I should have gone overboard and been drowned to a certainty, as no boat could have lived in the sea that was running.

After a couple of months at home at Bedford, I sailed in the “S^t Vincent”, a ship of 890 tons, for Adelaide.

I had made this change as I considered it would likely be beneficial to me in the long run, to leave my father and go in a smaller and a strange ship.

The “S^t Vincent” belonged to the same firm as the “Sobraon”, Devitt & Moore, and was commanded by Captain Barrett, with W. Taylor, I. [?] Maitland, and a [?] Crocker [?] 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd Mates, and apprentices Elmslie, Dawson, Sylvester, Weymouth, Price, [ ], Morris & Miller.

^{[page 17]} We had a few saloon passengers and a general cargo.

A good start was made down channel but before we were clear of the land, smoke was noticed issuing from the fore hatch one morning. All hands were at once started looking for the cause, and the fire was very soon discovered down in the lazarette [?] at the other end of the ship, the entrance being a small hatchway in the After cabin.

On this hatch being removed, the smoke rushed up in volumes, and drove everyone out of the cabin, the women [?] passengers naturally made a great scene, especially one who had lost two children in the saloon; they were founds later on by one of the crew, both being insensible from the smoke.

Being a small sailing vessel, our appliances for dealing with a fire were of the crudest kind, one portable hand pump only this pump, however, was at once got to work, and a line being formed of the ships company, water was rapidly passed aft in buckets to the lazarette [?] hatch, the scene of the fire.

For some time it was impossible to stay in the cabin more than a few minutes even with wet handkerchiefs on the face, the smoke was so dense, so that officers and men had to relieve one another inside by ^{[page 18]} the hatch, and several narrowly escaped suffocation being drawn out insensible, the fresh air however, soon revived them.

Serious as the affair was, there were some comical incidents.

Amongst the passengers was a young Cockney schoolmaster, very effeminate and short sighted, and this person got beside himself with excitement and quite lost his head. While we were all running water along the spar [?] deck to the cabin, he wanted to assist, but got in the way so much that Dawson capsized him into the wash deck tub, this cooled him for a little, but shortly afterwards, I noticed him at the skylight in the poop, down which he was pouring water into the cabin. Then captain standing by the small hatch down which we were being lowered in bowlines to direct the hose, received most of the water on his back, which caused him to energetically bless the [ ], although without the effect of stopping the bath.

After twenty four hours steady hard work, we mastered the fire, but could not put it our, so the Captain put back to London, arriving there two days later.

On partly discharging the vessel, considerable damage was found to have been done to the cargo by fire and water, the mishap seemed to have originated ^{[page 19]} in a storeroom adjoining the lazarette [?], to which the steward alone had access, and as this man was suspected to have caused the fire by taking naked light below when none too sober, he was sent about his business.

The vessel stayed seven days in the docks repairing damages, and then made a fresh start which was more propitious than the first.

Nothing of any special importance occurred until we were just getting clear of the SE trades, when one day at two bells in the first dog watch, while my watch were at tea in the foks’l [sic], there was suddenly a succession of tremendous crashes, and the deck overhead seemed to be giving way, while the vessel trembled violently.

This happened in less time than it takes to record it, and on rushing out of the berth we found the ship pretty well dismasted.

We had been going along with a fine leading wind, every stitch set, when the ship was suddenly taken aback. One of the jib guys parted, the others, not strong enough to stand the extra strain, followed suit, when the bowsprit went at the gammering [?]. This brought down the fore topmast, which inturn [sic] brought down the main t’gallantmast. The whole occurred in a few seconds.

^{[page 20]} This accident gave all hands continuous work for three days and nights rigging jurymasts.

The carpenter was able to make new upper masts and spars, but we were obliged to shift the mizzen topmast to the fore, turning the vessel into a barque.

Such however were the sailing qualities of the “Saint”, that we made a very good passage under jury rig, and passed two crack London ships which we came into company with.

About a week after this mishap, I had cause to thank my stars that I was a good swimmer.

I was out stowing one of the jibs, about the middle of the second dog watch, when the sail bellied out and knocked me off the footrope.

The moment I touched the water I struck out to get clear of the cutwater, for had the vessel struck me fairly with her stern, I should have been stunned, as it was, she just shaved me with the bluff of her bow.

The ship was travelling about six knots so that I was well away astern before she rounded to and lowered a boat, and then, the night coming in, it was difficult to find me.

I had been some forty minutes in the water when picked up. A lifebuoy, of course, had been thrown over, but I had not been able to find it.

^{[page 21]} Shortly after this again, one of the A.B.s fell overboard in the daytime, but we picked him up without much difficulty. He was not a very good swimmer, but a buoy was thrown right at him, as he passed astern with which he supported himself.

The Easting was run down in high latitudes and the cold was intense, the ship mostly running with very strong following winds with frequent hail and snow squalls.

Most of the discomforts of a sailor’s life were brought forcibly before me this trip. Sails were constantly carrying away in the many squalls and to spend whole nights up aloft bending new ones, our hands bleeding from handling the frozen canvas, wet and numbed through and through by the hail and snow, was, by no means uncommon.

In the fok’sel too, things were bad, our charts and clothes floating about in water, in fact, from the Cape to past the Leeuwin it was a described, no comfort or rest.

On arriving at Adelaide, all the men were paid off, leaving six of us apprentices to do everything.

The riggers, of course put the vessel straight aloft with our assistance, after which we had to paint the ship, below and aloft, coal her, shift her about as required, and finally load ^{[page 22]} her with wool wheat and tallow.

When things were a bit slack, I obtained a weeks leave with Morris [?], and went yachting down the Gulf, we had fair shooting and fishing, but spent most of the time at a Selector’s house on the banks of a small creek on the coast.

We found this place out accidentally, and on spending an afternoon with the owner, we became such good friends, that it did not take much persuasion on his part to make us stay a few days, especially as there were two good looking daughters. As might be expected we did no trouble our yacht again until we had to return.

No sooner were we back at the ship, than as seemed to be my fate, there was trouble.

The difficulty arose from our refusing in a body to do some extra unimportant work on a Saturday afternoon, which is always kept as a holiday in any port, and for this, the whole berth had liberty and money stopped for a fortnight, which grew rather irksome. The Captain was so angry, that had it not been for the expense of replacing us with men at high wages, he would have sent us to the gaol for refusing duty, he had the power to do so.

^{[page 23]} During my enforced confinement to the ship however, I managed to pass away the evenings very pleasantly with M^rs B’s nurse.

The old lady that had acted as such on the out trip was replaced by a sweet young South Australian, who had plenty to say for herself, and the Captain and his wife most thoughtfully going ashore every evening, the coast was clear for me to pass away the time more enjoyably than in the fok’sel [sic].

Two nights before sailing on the return trip, W— [?] and I got terribly mauled by a gang of larrikins. Eight of the wretches set on to the two of us when ashore and what would have happened to us had we not been rescued by some other apprentices, is difficult to say.

When attacked we got our backs to a wall and defended ourselves as well as possible while singing out for rescue.

I saw little but stars for some time, for it was impossible to defend ourselves against eight fists, and when assistance reached us after a few minutes, we were in a terrible plight and separated, W— [?] being out in the road, and myself near the wall.

The broil ended in two of our rescuers being run in for the night, the police, as usual, taking the wrong men.

Our stay in Port Adelaide lasted ^{[page 24]} for eight weeks and we then sailed for London via Cape of Good Hope. The passage to Table Bay and stay there were uneventful, in fact nothing occurred until we got into heavy weather in the Western Ocean at the end of February. I then had another narrow escape from losing my life.

We had let run and chewed up all the light sails, and W— and myself were up stowing the main royal, one on either yardarm. Suddenly there was a snapping sound below us, and the mast swayed over considerably, causing us both to look down, when to our horror, we saw that both the weather top gallant backstays had gone, throwing all the support of the topgallant and royal masts into the royal backstay. It is needless to say that we slid down with the greatest rapidity, only just in time, for as we reached the topmast head the topgallantmast went at the cap, some of the gear very nearly dragging us with it. It was a near thing.

After this wee got continuous bad weather, and were headreaching [?] for days together, under fine [?] and main lower topsails and fine [?] topmast staysail. Tremendous seas constantly broke over the vessel, sweeping away two boats from the skids, the bulwarks in the waist, and everything movable. We also lost a man under sad circumstances.

^{[page 25]} One afternoon, the ship headreaching, the watch were in the poop tautering [?] in the weather main brace, and to put the watch tackle on, an A.B. got out on the brace bumpkin, did the work and was just getting in, when a sea lopped up and took him away. Although hampered with his oilskins, the man kept afloat, and was swimming after the ship for some time, in fact as long as he could be seen astern. Unhappily it was out of the question to pick him up, as no boat could have lived in the sea running, though there were plenty of volunteers ready to try had they been allowed.

In cases like this, a commanding officer is in a very delicate and unpleasant position, he, no doubt, is only too anxious to try and save life, but it is clearly his duty to prevent another six or seven men going to almost certain death to try and save the unfortunate man in the water.

Shortly after this mishap we got fine weather, and reached London quickly, end of March 1880.

This ended my service in “windjammers”. ^{[page 26]}

— 2 —

The next three months I passed at Bedford, my father reaching home early in June.

Shortly after his arrival, I was offered an appointment as 3^rd mate of the S.S. Naples, then lying at Hamburg, and not yet being out of my time, this was not to be despised, so leaving London by the S.S. “Libra” I reached Hamburg on the 12^th July, and at once reported myself at the agents, Slomans, [?] where I was introduced to Captain W— of the “Naples”. From him I found that through some delay of advices from Nelson & Dunkin [?] of Newcastle, from whom I received the appointment, a 3^rd mate had already been shipped, and that I was too late.

This was rather unexpected news, but I was tired of doing nothing ashore, and to go back to London was not to be thought of, so I shipped before the mast as A.B. at ₤2-5-0 a month, and joined the vessel the same day.

We had a few days at Hamburg, most of which time I spent at the Gardens and Dancing Houses, enjoying myself immensely – the German girls dance well –, and then sailed for Cronstadt [?].

No sooner was the vessel clear of the Elbe that I found that I was in for a rough trip.

^{[page 27]} The “Naples” was a fine cargo steamer with no passenger accommodation and was “Geordie” from stem to stern, all sailors know what that means.

The skipper was a rough uncouth old martinet, the 1^st and 2^nd Mates were Geordie also, but the Engineers as usual were mostly Scotch. The 3^rd Mate, by the w3ay, missed his passage at Hamburg, the ship sailing without him. The fok’sel was a regular hell afloat, and I was the only Britisher amongst both seamen and firemen. The latter were mostly Germans, but of the former, no two were of the same nationality. This was the result of sailing from a foreign port, and before I said goodbye to the “Naples”, there had been some petty quarrels, knives drawn and used too, although without fatal effect.

On reaching Cronstadt we went into dock and commenced loading provisions and munitions of war for Vladivostok under Charter top the Russian Government.

I managed to get away a good deal here with the 3^rd Engineer W—; as regards liberty generally I could not complain of the Naples; as usual in such vessels, the discipline was nil, consequently, unless we were working, we could go ashore. While there was any work to do however, we had to ^{[page 28]} work with a vengeance.

Cronstadt is a wonderfully strong place, in fact it seems almost impregnable.

The first night W— and myself were ashore, very nearly saw us landed in a Russian gaol, we had been dining about the town in a droschy [sic], and when it came to paying the driver there was a row. The man wanted three times as many kopecs [sic] as we had arranged to give him, this we could not see, and as we could not understand one another, we all got rather excited and profane. The noise attracted all the droschy [sic] drivers within hail, and we were getting properly hustled when luckily a British resident turned up and rescued us. But for his coming, we should have resorted to blows, and would have been run in straight away, and it is no easy matter to get out of a Russian prison. There is very little love lost at any time between Russians and British, but just at this period, the feeling was very strong against us, as the Russians were fighting the Chinese, and we favoured the latter.

Our subsequent ramblings ashore passed more smoothly, but we narrowly escaped being drawn into quarrels at the Dancing Houses on two occasions.

Before leaving Cronstadt I was lucky enough to be able to pay a visit ^{[page 29]} to S^t Petersbourg, going up the Neva one day and down the next. It impressed me as being a fine city, but has been so often described, that I need not dwell upon it.

On completing loading we made a fresh start on our voyage, embarking a few Russian soldiers as passengers for Siberia.

The Captain now appointed me acting 3^rd mate, which position I held throughout the voyage, although I never signed on the articles as such. and I shifted from the fok’sel into the Carpenters and Bo’sons [?] berth, a change not much for the better however.

Both my new mates were Germans, and had been dragged up somewhat differently to myself and our tastes differed considerably, which was frequently awkward; for instance, they liked raw bacon, whilst I, perhaps foolishly, preferred it cooked. Fermented Sauerkraut again was not to my taste, the smell was bad enough, neither was garlic, which was another favourite of both. To add to my discomfort, neither of these gentlemen was particularly fond of a bath nor clean clothes, they used to be quite amused at my washing occasionally. The carpenter again was troubled with an illness, which he would probably have escaped, had he lived a quieter life. To cap it all, after a short time, the lamp ^{[page 30]} trimmer took up his quarters with us in the bunk under mine, and although a good hearted fellow, “Peter the Greek’s” ways were abominable.

These discomforts now look terrible to me, and I should not fancy undergoing them again, but at the time, I thought but little of them, one has to get used to many strange things at sea.

Leaving Cronstadt, we made a short stay at Copenhagen for coal, then on again to Malta, where we lay a day coaling, thence on to Port Said. Two more days saw us through the canal, a short stay at Suez, then on again to Singapore stopping a day at Aden for coal.

At Singapore we stayed two days and I was able to see something of the place. Leaving here, we steamed direct to Nagasaki in Japan.

Shortly before reaching this port, I got into trouble through striking one of the Russian soldiers for throwing some pigeons overboard belonging top our mess, and as the man’s [?] officers made a great fuss about the matter it looked rather serious at the time, but although I was officially logged [?], I heard no more about it.

At Nagasaki we stayed three days coaling. This harbour is one of the prettiest and best I have seen, running Port Jackson very closely in its security and ^{[page 31]} scenery.

Coaling ship here was quite interesting, as young women did all the work. The junks used to come alongside at daybreak crowded with girls, who formed themselves into lines to the bunker hatches, and passed the coal along in small buckets one to the other, and keeping it up with great rapidity all day. These women were all quite young, generally about twenty years of age, of a fresh complexion, and some of them really pretty, with features and figures much like European girls. The higher class women however, are more like the Chinese.

The dress of these fair coal lumpers was very picturesque, a blue dungaree skirt, with a lighter piece of the same material thrown over the shoulders, and for head gear, a large white hood. When coaling they stripped to the waist. Notwithstanding the dirty nature of their work, they always seemed to be clean, in fact at every opportunity they were washing themselves. Their manners were good, and although rather free, they behaved themselves, though their ideas of modesty would not suit English people.

Women are the same all the world over as to causing trouble, and we had not been coaling long before there were several free fight sin the fok’sel over the Japs. A Portuguese sailor was stabbed ^{[page 32]} by one of the Greeks the second day, which cooled his ardour for a week or so, and two other men got slashed [?] about in the constant scuffles, though not seriously. I believe the Japs liked to see the men fighting over them, most women at heart really do, it is a tribute to their variety.

From Nagasaki we steamed direct to Vladivostok in a few days experiencing heavy weather most of the way. During the tumbling about the vessel got, all our beef and pork, which was stowed away under the break of the fok’sel with some casks of oil and deck varnish, broke adrift, all the casks coming to pieces, and the contents being well mixed, the meat was thoroughly saturated with oil before it was picked up and put away. Our fare had always been hard, but from this date it was worse than ever, the meat had become like rock from the varnish and was uneatable. I lived on biscuit and grease while at sea after this.

Arrived at our final port we were once more taken possession of by Russian soldiers and sailors, who discharged the cargo into small boats to be lightered ashore.

Vladivostok is essentially a military settlement, being the stronghold of the Russians in the North Pacific. On shore none but soldiers, sailors and ^{[page 33]} Tartars were to be seen, no civilians at all. The harbour is a good one, and is strongly fortified and garrisoned, and during our stay there were also ten Russian men o’war in port.

Our sole amusement in this place was salmon fishing, and fine large fish were sp plentiful and easy to catch that we became quite tired of pulling them in. There was nothing to do ashore, a bleak and barren country as far as one could see, and in the few rambles W— and I had, we were so nearly getting molested by the Russian soldiers, who by their manner showed that they had but little love for the British, that we kept pretty closely to the ship. The lower class Russians are more like brutes than men, the soldiers would bear knives and blows from their officers without a murmur, and seemed not to possess the slightest spark of feeling. One morning one of them fell down the hatch to the bottom of the hold injuring himself to such an extent that he died shortly afterwards. His comrades laughingly pushed him to one side, letting him be unattended with the blood flowing from his mouth, no doubt he would have been allowed to die as he lay, but for our men, who brought him up and attended to him, though without avail.

The weather was bitterly cold here, ^{[page 34]} a Siberian winter just commencing, and it was hardly possible to sleep at nights, even covered up as I used to be.

The skipper exhibited his martinet propensities, on several occasions while at this port. One day, the thermometer being considerably below freezing point, and a strong keen wind blowing he took it into his head to have the topmasts scraped and oiled, a most unnecessary proceeding in such a part of the world as Siberia. Three men went aloft and started scraping, but after a short time they became so number and helpless, that it was necessary to lower them down. Three more were then sent up to continue the work, myself among the number, and I can still remember the feelings I experienced. Swinging about in a bowline, the wind going right through me, with hands numbed with the cold oil, soon put me in the same state as my predecessors, and I had to be assisted down, being unable to help myself., the other two men were in the same condition. The language we used when thawing in the engine room is best kept unsaid. Of the six sufferers, one, an old as laid up for some time.

The next freak of the “old man’s” was to send me away one night in ^{[page 35]} the jolly boat with two hands, to a Russian transport some six miles up to windward. This job in the daytime would have been thought nothing of, but it was unfair, the purpose of our journey being unimportant, to let us work all day and then send us away at 6 pm, when the ordinary day’s work was finished. We were pulling all night against a heavy head sea and strong wind, the spray breaking over and freezing our clothes into boards. Reaching the transport at 3 am, we found our errand was fruitless, and returned at once, arriving at our vessel ay 5 am, turned in for two hours, then started ion the usual day’s work.

Such unnecessary orders as these are not calculated to make saints of those who have to carry them out. No sailor objects for a moment to any hardship when there seems to be a necessity for it, but a crew soon get dissatisfied when they see that no consideration whatever is had for them by the Captain and Officers.

A fortnight at Vladivostok saw us empty, and a start made in ballast for Nagasaki, where we arrived in due course, moored the vessel close in shore, and waited for orders. We now had a good time of it indeed.

There being but little to do by the ship, I got away a good deal and saw a lot of the surrounding and ^{[page 36]} my impression of Japan is that there is no country so well worth visiting, everything is so novel. The Japanese themselves are a pleasant happy people and nothing seems to trouble them.

Directly I found that our stay was likely to be a long one, I took up my quarters ashore, living in a small house, with W— for my next door neighbour, and the other officers in houses of their own higher up the street. The duties at the ship took up the day, but at 5 pm she was neglected to the watchman and we repaired to our respective houses, where after a wash, W— and I, arrayed in Japanese clothes, would have a smoke whilst our housekeepers prepared tea, which as a rule we had together for company’s sake, first in one house then in the other. The evenings were commonly spent trying top talk Japanese to the girls, or in visiting the theatres, baths or wrestling matches. At these baths the men bathe together in primeval costume, which seems rather strange, until the novelty wears off.

The Japanese houses are peculiar, mine was of a kind of strong paper, and the walls were all movable, sliding in grooves. The floors were covered with matting, and as one eats from and sleeps on the floor, it is the custom to take the shoes off on entering from the ^{[page 37]} street. My bed consisted of two thick pleated quilts, one under and the other above me,; this part was comfortable, but I could not endure the pillow, which consisted of a narrow piece of china, ion which to rest the neck, with no support whatever for the head. To sleep on this was out of the question, as I no sooner got drowsy, than my head fell down on the other side, and I was nearly6 suffocated. This used to amuse my housekeeper greatly, as she had never used any other kind herself, but she finally fixed up a pillow more to my liking.

This life was too pleasant to last very long, and it was with regret that I heard that we were to load coal for Hong Kong.

Coaling was started as before, with crowds of women all over the ship, by whom we were soon loaded, and made ready to start. My landlady Yoné [?] much demurred at my going, and finally wanted to come with me, but this of course was out of the question. She was a goods looking young woman, about twenty two years of age and a most attentive housekeeper. At first we had some difficulty in understanding one another, as neither knew a word of the other’s language, but we were rapidly surmounting this little difficulty.

Shortly before we left Nagasaki, ^{[page 38]} a sailor was hanged at the yardarm of a Russian man o’war close by for attempting the life of an officer, it was not a pleasant spectacle.

Leaving Japan behind, four days steaming took us to Hong Kong, where after discharging, we went into the Aberdeen dry dock for an overhaul. This dock is situated round at the back of the town of Hong Kong, away from all European settlement, but near a large native village. In the evenings we used to go into this village and pass away the time in various ways, and on our last visit, W— and I nearly got into trouble.

Our vessel was infested with rats, and having no cats aboard, we determined to ‘make’ some from the village, where they were very numerous, and as we thought an uproar not unlikely, we selected the last evening of lour stay for operations. Going ashore wearing overcoats with large pockets, we spent an hour or so at the shops finally asking to see some kittens. When our wants became known, dozens of kittens were held out to us by a crowd of men and women, and in the confusion we slipped several into our pockets. Unfortunately this was noticed and as we did not make a move to give the plunder up again, the men began to gesticulate angrily and hustle us. Throwing out a kitten now ^{[page 39]} and then as a sop, we retreated backwards to the ship, not far distant, followed by a quickly increasing mob of Chinamen, some flourishing their knives. We were just considering the advisability of dropping our coats and kittens and making a run for it, when fortunately eleven of our crew appeared on the scene, and turned the scale in our favour long enough for us to reach the ship plus three kittens.

Am ashamed of all this now (1890) but didn’t see things in same light at the time. [This was written in the margin in pencil, and shows that the diary, at this point at least, was being written ten years after the events described]

The mob sulkily scattered after a bit, and when things were quiet again, we went ashore, and surprised two men in a house from whom we levied a cat, and later on, when returning to the ship, we made a raid on some pigs and secured two yapping ones, a fair nights work. These performances I now think were not to to our credit, but we thought them correct enough at the time.

On getting round to Hong Kong again, the “Naples” was handed over to the painters and carpenters, and was fitted up for carrying coolies between Calcutta and Hong Kong, having been chartered by Jardine, Matheson & C^o for three years.

This new charter completely upset all my plans, as I had joined the steamer on assurances from her owners, that the round voyage would not exceed six months, ^{[page 40]} my time was now in, and I was anxious to get home for my examination and top join the P. & O. Co. for which I was entered. On thinking the matter over I concluded to ask for my discharge as soon as I saw an opportunity of getting another ship bound for a home port. To pay my passage could not be thought of, as I had no money.

The ship was some time getting fitted up, during which I contrived to see a good deal of Hong Kong and its surroundings. It is a fine place, and I should say pleasant to live in, the gardens situated on a hill overlooking the town and harbour, are very fine.

There being nothing to induce me to try and quit the ship here, I said nothing of my intention of leaving, and in a few days we sailed for Singapore, Penang and Calcutta with five hundred coolies.

At Singapore we stayed two days and I had time to see something of the country near. The scenery is fine and the vegetation luxuriant, and the numerous bungalows around the town, the residences of the European business people, are very picturesque.

At noon, the day after leaving Singapore, the ship ran up on a sand bank, going on so smoothly, that no one knew of it until I happened to look over the side. This mishap was caused by the Captain sending the officer on ^{[page 41]} watch about some duty on deck, instead of leaving him on the bridge, his proper place. It took us over twenty four hours hard constant work to get the vessel clear again, all of which time I spent in the boats laying out anchors. This work under a tropical sun and rain was unpleasant and the exposure was very conducive to jungle fever. I myself felt no ill effects, but two of the hands were laid up just afterwards.

Our stay at Penang was short, and I did not see a great deal of the place. It did not however seem very different to Singapore.

From Penang we experienced fine weather to Calcutta, our final port.

Going up the Hoogly was interesting, and I could understand some of the difficulties the famous Calcutta pilots have to contend with in the way of navigation. Between Garden [?] Reach and the City, there were some hundred vessels lying, and of these I took good stock, as I had fully resolved to get my discharge here. The vessel moored alongside the bank at dusk and I was soon afterwards ashore with W—, who was also intending to leave. A few inquiries in various quarters satisfied us that there would be no difficulty in getting a berth again, provided we were no too particular as to our destination, so the next day ^{[page 42]} accordingly, we both asked for our discharge and got it, although the Captain was disinclined to let me go, explaining that he wished to part with the second mate, and to put me in his place. I thanked him civilly for the offer, but pointed out that arrangements on my behalf were already made at home, and that it was not advisable for me top stay away any longer.

Thus ended my five months before the mast, for which I received the munificent sum of ₤11.5.0. 13. Dec. 1880. This amount was not large to begin with , but when it is considered that I received it in Indian coinage, reckoning 10 rupees to the pound — according to our articles — whereas the proper exchange was close to thirteen rupees to the pound, it was still further reduced. ^{[page 43]}

• 3 —

The moment we were free of the “Naples”, W— and myself, with the

improvident style one gets into at sea, determined to have a little relaxation after our hardships and rough living, and this we had in various ways, and although I had other money than the pay just received, still excursions into the country and the assistance of our companions, soon brought our finances to the lowest ebb. Calcutta being so well known it would be superfluous to describe it, suffice to say that nothing worth seeing was left unvisited by us.

Our money being done it was necessary to see about getting a ship, so we started one morning in a dingy to pull down to Garden Reach through the tiers of vessels, boarding all those getting ready for sea. My idea was to get a ship going to the Colonies, as being well known there. I would be able to get home in a better position and more comfortably than would be the case, were I to ship before the mast in a homeward bounder from Calcutta. A four months trip in, probably, a hard living “outsider” was not to my liking, and was to be avoided if possible. The result of our boarding about twenty vessels was to find that there were two for Melbourne in about six weeks, several ^{[page 44]} for London and other home ports in a month, and a Yankee for New York just sailing and in want of hands. Much to my disgust I saw that a trip in the Yankee was a matter of necessity, and had made up my mind to accept the inevitable, when the next day brought me an agreeable surprise.

I was walking along the river bank, jingling the three rupees in my pocket, all I had left, and waiting for 11 o’clock to arrive, at which hour I was to meet the Captain of the Yankee and sign on to his vessel, when a large steamer came around a bend in the river on her way up to the moorings. Her colours showed her to be a “[ ]” boat, and I soon made out the name to be “Duke of Buccleuch”. to which vessel, I remembered that one of the numerous sailor members of our family had belonged, when I was last at home, viz. [?] T. M— an uncle by marriage. As soon as the Duke was fast I was aboard, finding to my great satisfaction, that my uncle was still Chief Officer. He was very surprised but glad to see me, and we spent the rest of the day together exchanging news. This find, of course, absolved me of the necessity of sailing under the Stars and Stripes.

My uncle being well acquainted with Indian trade, on knowing of my desire to get to Australia, advised me to go to Columbo, as small vessels frequently ^{[page 45]} left there for Melbourne, promising me the money for my passage down. This advice I concluded to follow and left two days later in the “Navarino” [?]. W— remained behind shipping some time afterwards to the West Indies, as I heard subsequently.

Being now a passenger, I was able to see the places we called at thoroughly and did so, generally in company with a young tea planter, F [?] from Kerchari [?]. in Assam. At Madras we spent two days, and saw a little of the Country, and in those two days I saw about as many cripples and horribly deformed persons, as I have ever seen before or since, some of the cases were disgusting. We also notices two men walking on the points of nails, leaving a red track behind them, and followed by an admiring crowd. This uncomfortable proceeding was supposed to cause considerable benefits to accrue to them in the future state.

Landing from a vessel at Madras is a risky business during most of the year owing to the tremendous surf breaking on the beach. Ordinary ships boats are useless being too stiff and strong, but the masulah [?] or native surf boats, being simply sewn together with coir yarn, give more to the heavy shocks they sustain in being beached, and stand surprisingly rough usage. In landing from, or going off to a vessel ^{[page 46]} in the roads, one frequently gets well drenched with water.

The “Navarino” [?] had a longer stay here than usual, having to await the pleasure of the retiring Governor, the Duke of Buckingham, who with his daughters, the Ladies Grenville [?], had taken passage to London.

Leaving Madras, a short run brought us to Columbo, where I left the “Navarino” [?] and took up my quarters at the “British India Hotel”. Some distant connections of mine, the Mackwoods, lived here, and I lost no time in looking them up to see if they had any vessel sailing for the Colonies. I should mention that they were in business on a large scale as general merchants and shipping Agents. Unfortunately there was no likelihood of any vessel leaving for some time, so there was nothing for it, but to pay my passage home, and this I did, the Mackwoods cashing my draft on my father for the passage money, and as the “Navarino” had been detained a day or so, I was enabled to go on in her again. I saw a good deal of Columbo and stayed at C. Mackwood’s bungalow, “Marmaduke”, some distance out of town until I sailed.

Leaving Ceylon, we proceeded, calling at Aden, Port Said, Suez and Malta. All these places were thoroughly inspected by the teaplanter and myself and at ^{[page 47]} Malta we very nearly lost the ship. Arriving late at night, we went ashore about 3 am. and drove a considerable distance out of town to see the Country and other things. The sailing hour was 9 am and as we tore down the hill towards the landing place some half an hour late, the “Navarino” [?] was just leaving the moorings. We had a hard pull after her, before the Captain stopped for us. It would have been awkward had we missed her, without clothes or money as we were.

A call at Gibraltar for coal was the only break between Malta and London where we arrived January 1881. The weather was bitterly cold, and the river covered with huge blocks of ice.

At Bedford I found all well and that my father was at sea.

As my time was now in, I worked up for my exam, and within a fortnight after my arrival had passed for second mate before the London examiners 7 Feb 1881. This being over, I reported at the P. & O. Coy’s offices, but finding my name so far back on the list of applicants, that I could not expect to receive an appointment for some time, I resolved on another voyage in a sailer, and applied at once to Devitt & Moore, my old firm, for a berth on one of their vessels. A few days after seeing them I was ^{[page 48]} advised of my appointment as third officer of their barque “City of Adelaide”, to sail for Adelaide in May, and as I was not required on board until shortly before the vessel was ready for sea, I went home to Essilmont, where the next two months passed very pleasantly,, what with picnics, rowing, violetting &c. Notice came in due course to join my ship at the end of April, but a week before that time, I caught a very severe cold, the result of getting wet through on several occasions while out primrosing. This laid me up and ended in a sharp attack of inflammation of then lungs, and before I was able to leave my bed, my ship sailed. After such a long stay on shore, this mishap was very annoying, but as it happened, it was all for the best.

At the end of May, being almost well, though rather weak, I went to London and again reported at the P. & O. Coy’s Offices, this time with success, as owing to the building of several new steamers, there were a few vacancies for Officers, and Captain Angove [?], the Marine Superintendent, was able to take me on at once. I was well satisfied with this but was afraid that I should not be able to pass the requisite medical examination. A bold front however and the appearance of health which is peculiar to me, satisfied the Doctor, who passed me into the service ^{[page 49]} without any hindrance. Had he made me take my shirt off, he would have found a huge belladona [sic] plaster on my chest, and although I was sound enough, he would have seen that I was only just recovering from an illness, and would probably have sent me back for six months. This little episode proves there is nothing like assurances to carry one through.

The next day I received my appointment as Supernumerary Fifth Officer on the Staff at the Albert Docks, and began duty at once. The work was not very onerous, but was rather unsatisfactory as I belonged to one ship. The Staff Officers were detailed for duty to any one the Company’s many steamers, as occasion required, and were very rarely in the same vessel for more than a couple of days.

As these steamers are manned almost entirely by Lascars, I applied myself to picking up Hindustanee, it being difficult to work the men without some knowledge of their language, and although a little hard at first, with constant practice with the men, and the assistance of Forbes’ Grammar, I soon became a fairly fluent speaker.

On the deck staff I served a week or so, having belonged to the “Verona”, “Poonah”, “Tualwa” [?], “Peshawar”, “Brindisi”, and “Indus” during that time, and ^{[page 50]} then signed on to the “Kaiser-i-Hind” as 6^th Officer, 23 June ’81.

This vessel was a barque rigged steamer of over 4000 tons and was commanded by I. C. Rabot [?] with men’s [?] crew [?] Angus [?], Gould, Watkins, Caine [?] and Elmslie as Officers. Leaving London full of saloon passengers, the P. & O. steamers not carrying any others, we proceeded to Sydney, calling at Southampton, Gibraltar, Malta. Canal ports, Aden, Galle, King George’s Sound, Adelaide and Melbourne, and arriving at our final port without any event of importance occurring. While at Melbourne I wrote to Cecily C— the young lady to whom I had been introduced when in the “Sobraon”, asking her to come and visit me, and this, perhaps unwisely, she did. It may seem ungallant, my asking her to come to me, instead of going to her, but I could not get away from the ship. We were pleased to see one another again, and made all sorts of arrangements for future happiness.

The vessel was a fortnight in Sydney and then sailed for home via same ports as on the outward run. When near the English channel, we met with very heavy weather, so much so, that it was necessary to run for Portland for shelter. We had been unable to get observations for some time yet by constant soundings alone, we navigated ^{[page 51]} so accurately as to see Portland breakwater right ahead at the right time, in fact, the vessel was almost on it before it was made out, so thick was the rain and fog. After a day’s stay here, the weather broke, and we proceeded to Southampton arriving there 20^th October ’81. I was not to see much of my friends this time though, for before the vessel was properly fast, I received orders from headquarters through the Captain to proceed to London at once by rail to join another vessel. Leaving the “Kaiser-i-Hind” at noon, I arrived at Euston in the evening, drove across to S^t Pancras, and ran down to Bedford for the night, finding all well at home, my father having sailed shortly before. The next morning on reporting myself at the Offices I found that I was appointed 6^th Officer of the “Carthage”, a new four masted steamer of 5000 tons recently launched at Greenock, and then lying in the Albert Dock ready for sea. Signing her articles, 24^th Oct. 1881, we left for Sydney the next day. Her complement of officers was as follows. G. N. Hector [?], Captain, and Messrs. Parfitt, Blackbourne, Napier, Wickenden, Henry [?] and Elmslie, with G. Cole as Surgeon. Sir Thomas Elder of South Australia was among the passengers. Calling at the usual ports we reached Sydney staying there eleven days and working ^{[page 52]} cargo day and night. Captain Hector was a great man at Government House and Lord Loftus and suite lunched on board on two occasions, being received and treated with great ceremony. In Melbourne, I found the “Sobraon”, and my father and Archie who was an apprentice on board, went round to Sydney with us as passengers, staying there until we sailed.

The P. & O. steamers never stayed very long in Melbourne, about two days on the out trip, and about five on the return, and as there was always plenty of work, it was difficult to get much leave. As however, E. used to visit me frequently, I did not much regret much having to keep to the ship.

We proceeded home via same ports, full of passengers, including the Governor of Tasmania, Sir Henry Lefroy [?] and arrived in London, 26^th Feb^y ’82.

At the various ports of call, I frequently got ashore, and at one time or another saw all that could be seen in such short visits. Gibraltar is of great interest, chiefly from a military point of view, but unfortunately I was never there long enough to inspect it as thoroughly as I would like to have done. On one occasion I saw a good bull fight which took place close to British ground. Malta I was able to see to better purpose, the detentions there being much longer than at the former ^{[page 53]} place. Port Said afforded amusement at its “Cafés Chantants” which were always well patronized by both passengers and officers, and much the same can be said of Suez, with the addition of camel and donkey riding, generally to Moses’ Well. Aden has few attractions, but Columbo and Galle repay a visit. The drives are very pleasant, and the scenery good. Albany has nothing of interest except its splendid harbour, but the climate is unsurpassed in Australia.

In London after the vessel was discharged, I obtained four days leave which was passed at Essilmont. The “Carthage” was altogether twelve days in dock and then sailed again for Sydney 10^th March. I was 5^th this time, Napier having left for promotion, by which his three juniors each got a step. With this one exception, the officers were the same as before. At Suez this time there was some excitement with a fire. The vessel was lying in the Roads, discharging cargo into lighters and being worked by Arab coolies. There had been some difficulty in getting these Arabs, owing to the bitter feeling against the British at this date when Arabi Pasha was at his highest, and I fancy there had been some compulsion used top make them come off to the ship. Be this as it may, about 1 am., the fire bell ^{[page 54]} rang, and all hands were quickly at stations. The 3^rd and myself had been relieved at midnight by the 2^nd and 4^th, and the former was looking after the main hatch, where the fire occurred. It appears that the Arabs suddenly rushed up out of the hold, saying “Hag [or Stag] hai, Sahib” — Fins, Sir — and cleared over the side into the lighters, and as far as could be ascertained, they had capsized a lamp, and the cargo stowed there being of an inflammable nature, an instantaneous flare up was the result. Ass there the English quartermasters and some lascars below, the Arabs must have acted very quietly to be as successful as they were. In a remarkably short time however, a score of hoses were pouring tons of water down the hatch, through immense volumes of smoke. Owing to the seat of the fire, men had to go below and lead the hoses aft under the deck, and the native crew behaved splendidly, going into places of great danger without a murmur, provided they were led by an officer. This is characteristic of the Indian Races, fearful as a rule by themselves, they will go almost anywhere, if well led. After several hours hard work, the fire was mastered and eventually put out. That we were successful in this was entirely owing top the good discipline prevailing on board this, as on all P. & O. ^{[page 55]} photo with caption Port Said 1880 ^{[page 56]} steamers. Boat and fire drill are so constantly practised that in an emergency there is no confusion, every man of the ships company has his alloted [sic] station, and knows exactly where to go, and under whose orders to work. Once the excitement was over, I t was interesting to note the crowds at the companion doors. Ladies, young and old, were all there, in the lightest of attire waiting anxiously for the latest news. None of us officers either had on much superfluous clothing. We were all as black as the Sudhiboys [?], with clothes torn and wet, and with the exception of the two on duty at the time, we were as we turned out at the alarm. These little trifles were not noticed at first, but the impropriety of the costume on both sides gradually dawned upon the ladies, and they returned once more below.

After discharging the damaged cargo we proceeded on our way without further mishap. and arrived at Sydney in due course, calling at the usual ports, viz” Aden, Galle, Albany, Adelaide and Melbourne. A M^r Alexander Bell, brother of Sir Joshua Peter Bell, a late premier of Queensland, came out with us on his way to Brisbane. This gentleman, who was very wealthy, and a large squatter in Queensland, much wished me to leave the sea and go to “Jimbour” [?] Station, promising [ ] advance me quickly. I thought ^{[page 57]} photo with caption Port Said 1880 ^{[page 58]} over this a good deal, and promised to write to him from home. A Colonel Halkett, who was going to take up sugar lands in Queensland, also offered me employment, and although I decided nothing definitely, still it was arranged that he should cable home to me. I was now beginning to think that I might do better than remain at sea, but at the same time, did not care to throw up a good position, until I was certain of something definite to take to. It afterwards turned opus that I acted wisely in leaving these two offers in abeyance, they would have come to nothing.

The “Carthage” lay a fortnight in Sydney, during which I had but little time to myself, and then sailed for home full of passengers and via usual ports arriving in London 17^th July 1882. photo with caption P. & O. S.S. “Carthage”1881^{[page 59]} photo with caption Port Said 1880 ^{[page 60]}

— 4 —

The day after arriving in the “Carthage” i.e. on the 18^th July 1882, I was appointed 4^th Officer of the “Indus” a barque rigged steamer of over 4000 tons, and two days later, sailed for Sydney again. The Officers of this vessel were, S. W. [?] Shellard, Captain, and Messrs. C. F. Preston, Bishop, Ryder, Elmslie and Taylor, with W. Falla, Surgeon. We had not as many passengers as usual as the Egyptian war deterred people from travelling.

On arriving at Port Said, we found the port as full of warships as it could well be. It was a magnificent spectacle, all several of the powerful vessels of our Mediterranean fleet were moored with their guns bearing on the town, Arabi’s men being partly in possession of the place at this time, the French had about as many men o’war present as ourselves, Italy had her tremendous ironclads, and all nations that had any navy to speak of, were represented by one or two vessels. It was a scene of great excitement, and one not readily forgotten. The British fleet had just come round from Alexandria after bombarding that place, and two of the vessels bore visible signs of having been in action.

Shortly after arriving in port, a pinnace from one of our men o’war brought the [ ] of Port Said on board ^{[page 61]} photo without caption ^{[page 62]} accompanied by two wives and two sons. It appears that Srabi, who was not too far distant had sent in orders for the [ ] to go out and see him, on which the Pasha in great alarm becoming uneasy, at once cleared off to a British man o’war for protection, whence he was transferred to our vessel, as having better accommodation. We kept him three days, and then transferred him to another P. & O. steamer. The old fellow Pasha seemed quite comfortable with us, and took very good care to keep closely to the ship, for on shore, and close by, Arabi’s men were watching to get a shot at him or capture him hold of him, should he leave the protection of our flag. The Admiral detained us here four days on the grounds that it was not safe to enter the canal with Arabi in possession of the surrounding country, but finally allowed us to proceed on ascertaining that we were well armed. Several of the passengers however declined to face the risk and remained behind.

The “Indus” like all the P. & O. steamers had a good supply of small arms of navy pattern and plenty of ammunition, and also two 12-pounders. We started through the canal with lookouts aloft and the bridge well protected by sheets of iron, rendering it quite bullet proof. The vessel steering from the bridge, that was the most ^{[page 63]} photo without caption ^{[page 64]} important part to protect, as in the event of an attack, the Arabs would have tried to kill the quartermaster at the helm so that the vessel would run aground, and be at their mercy. The enemy were seen not far away, but did not molest us, and we anchored in Lake Timsah [?] that night close to H.M. S.S. “Orion” and “Carysfort” [?] No sooner was our anchor down than we were boarded by a sub-lieutenant of the “Orion” with instructions from the Captain not to proceed, as the Arabs were in possession of the Canal ahead. All that night, Arabi’s troops were pouring into Ismailia by train with drums beating and great commotion generally. We were close in shore, and could see everything distinctly from aloft, as the “Carysfut” [?] swept the country with her electric light. During the evening I was sent away to the “Orion” in our launch and stayed some hours on her waiting for orders. Her Captain was apparently undecided both as to his own actions and as to our movements. For some time it was intended to land a body of men from the two warships in the morning to try and dislodge the enemy, but this idea had to be abandoned, owing to the strength of the latter. In the morning after some delay men [?] we were allowed to proceed, all hands being around and at quarters. The Canal for some distance from Ismailia to Suez ^{[page 65]} photo with caption Suez Canal ^{[page 66]} is between high banks, and it was most probably here, that any intended attack would be made. It would have been a serious matter for us, as the enemy could have fired right down on our decks, and we would have been quite at their mercy. Luckily, however, they thought better of it, and although some Bedouins fired a few shots at our bridge armour, no regular attack was made, and we reached Suez in safety that evening., passing a strong body of the enemy camped some few miles before we cleared the Canal.

At Suez we met two others of the Company’s steamers, and next day with the passengers from the three vessels and officers of the British regiments encamped by the town, we made up a large excursion party to Moses’ Well, finishing up in the evening with a ball on the “Indus”.

At daylight the next morning we proceeded on our voyage, calling at regular ports, and in due course arriving at Sydney. The usual fortnight was spent here, and being a smaller ship than any previous one, cargo work was not so incessant, so that I got more time ashore, Leaving for home again, we stayed five days in Melbourne, working cargo most of the time — E— coming to see me often — and then proceeded via usual ports with a full complement ^{[page 67]} photo with caption Pyramids ^{[page 68]} of passengers, amongst them being Sir Arthur [ ], Governor of New Zealand. No event of importance occurred until we were off the Lizard going up Channel with half a gale of wind behind us, when soon after daylight one morning, what seemed to be a raft was sighted broad [?] on the bow. Keeping away a bit, it was seen to be a water logged vessel, lying on her side almost submerged and with some men lashed to the rigging. There was a fair sea running, and every few minutes the men would be under water. Steaming as close to the wreck as was prudent, the engines were stopped, and the mailboat sent away in my charge to effect a rescue. To approach a sunken boat such as this was, in a seaway is most dangerous, and I had great difficulty in getting near enough to do anything without capsizing. I managed to bring the boat close enough leeward however for the bowman to get on to the wreck with a small line, with which we hauled the men inboard through the water. The poor wretches were as frozen and numb, as to be completely helpless, they could neither move nor speak. One old man was dead, and as he was lashed in a place difficult to remove him from, he was left behind, but we took five men and a boy away. The latter’s arm ^{[page 69]} photo with caption Moses’ Well Suez ^{[page 70]} was broken in two places, and had swollen up terribly. Once on board the “Indus” and put to bed in warm blankets, the men recovered quickly, but the boy took some time to get over it. They were all Swedes and their vessel had capsized in a heavy squall two days before we took them off. At first after going over, the wreck rode high out of water, but soon became submerged as we had found her, and for about thirty six hours, these poor fellows had been up to their belts in water with the seas breaking over them. Fancy this, at the end of November, in the English Channel!

We arrived next day at Gravesend 21^st Nov. 1882, and a day or so afterwards, I obtained a week’s leave and went home to Essilmont. Bedford. My father and Archie were at sea on their way to Melbourne, so that I was the one male person in a house full of women folk.

The stay of the “Indus” in port, seventeen days, was soon over, and we sailed again for Sydney, via usual ports, 7th Dec. 1882., full of passengers and with the same officers as before. Going down Channel, one of the “paingiri [?] wallahs” fell overboard. It happened at 6 am. a strong Easterly wind blowing., with a fair sea running, the weather being bitterly cold. The man fell ^{[page 71]} four photos, three with captions Adelaide 1883 and one with caption Court House Adelaide 1883 ^{[page 72]} from the fok’sel and as he passed alongside, the Chief Officer dropped a buoy from the bridge, which he luckily managed to get hold of. At the same time the engines were stopped, and I went away in the 2^nd cutter to pick him up. It was not an easy matter to find him in the grey dawn of the morning, but we did so after some searching, and hauled him inboard. The poor fellow was so cold that he could neither speak nor help himself, and had he not got inside the buoy would have been drowned to a certainty, good swimmer though he was; the water was too cold to keep afloat in long.

In due course we reached Melbourne, where I met the “Sobraon” with my father and Archie.

On this trip out, the whole of the Officers with the exception of the 1^st, lost their hearts to the same lady, and the various manoeuvrings [sic] to get the best of one another was amusing. It was the usual thing to fall in love with some one, but for all to pitch on to the same individual was a new departure.

Two days after sailing I noticed a good looking young woman in the second class, and as she seemed rather interesting, I soon found an opportunity to speak to her, when I picked up that she was a young widow going to Sydney. ^{[page 73]} three photos with captions Hindley S^t Adelaide 1883, Street [sic] Adelaide 1883, and Gardens Adelaide 1883 ^{[page 74]} She was about 22 years of age, had been married to a Doctor, and had one child with her, about 4 years old.

As there was no one else in the second cabin — the P. & O. steamers did not carry such passengers as a rule, devoting the whole vessel to the saloon — I soon became great friends with her. This however was too good to last, and before many days, I had strong competition, the 2^nd, 3^rd, 5^th and Doctor running me closely. All this was bad enough, but to cap it all, the Captain took a fancy for the lady, and so monopolised her that we smaller fry had to give up the chase in despair. The 3^rd though would give way, and for the remainder of the trip, he was always dodging the Captain. It was a common thing to see R— sitting next to M^rs S— when the Captain would come and sit down on the other side of her, causing R— to get up and leave in disgust. The widow made use of both of them, but would not give up either. The Captain evidently took umbrage at R—‘s persistence, for he declined to have him in the ship on the next voyage.

Some time before reaching Adelaide R— laid up and I became Acting 3^rd in his place, keeping watch in turn with the other two seniors.

While in Melbourne I was introduced to a M^r R. I. Jaffray [?], a friend of my ^{[page 75]} two photos, Garden Palace Sydney 1881 and Gov^t. House Sydney 1881^{[page 76]} fathers. The latter had spoken to him about my desire to leave the sea, and M^r Jaffray [?] promised to interest himself on my behalf. At my interview with him, he advised me not to act too hurriedly, but thought that I should do well enough in North Queensland, and promised me employment of some kind there in the event of my deciding to leave the service.

Spending the customary fortnight in Sydney we proceeded home via usual ports, arriving in London 5^th April 1883.

R— remained ill almost the whole way home, so that I was acting 3^rd for most of the voyage, taking charge of a watch and of the mails.

This time I remained by the ship the whole of her stay in port, only going home for one Sunday, and the 26^th April we again sailed for Sydney., full of passengers, among them being General Sir Fred Staines, Commander in Chief in India.. The Officers this voyage were S. D. [?] Shallard [?], Captain and Mess^rs Preston, King, Napier, Elmslie and Taylor, with Falla Surgeon.

On this voyage the ship met with a serious mishap right at the onset. Leaving the dock at 2 a.m. we proceeded down the Thames in a dense haze, and before we had gone any great distance the pilot put the vessel ashore on the mud, and so firmly did she ^{[page 77]} two photos with caption Gardens Sydney 1881 ^{[page 78]} stick, that her own engines and the assistance of seven tugs failed top move her. Sending up to the docks for assistance, lighters and hands came down, and we commenced discharging, and on the second day, after putting out 600 tons of cargo, got off and proceeded to Gravesend in tow of three tugs, and with the propeller fouled with a wire hawser. All this time I had been drifting about the river in charge of as fleet of lighters full of the “Indus’” cargo. I had a steam launch and my boat’s crew and it was left to me to make the best arrangements I could, until orders were sent me from the ship. These came, as soon as she was clear, to join her at Gravesend, and I was to get my flotilla down there, and myself relieved of the charge of so much valuable cargo. It was no easy matter to keep the unwieldy lighters out of harms way in the crowded river, with only a small launch to tow. The cargo was soon aboard the “Indus” again, and her propeller cleared, and we made a fresh start 29^th October.

Calling at the usual ports, in due course we arrived at Sydney and staying there for thirteen days, turned for home again.

While at Melbourne, I saw M^r Jeffray [?], and arranged to come out to him, ^{[page 79]} two photos one with caption 1886 Sydney Post Office ^{[page 80]} after resigning in London.

From Colombo, we went to Bombay, and stayed there in Princes Dock, four days, during which I saw something of the place. Shortly before reaching Suez, about 11 am, one day, a fire broke out below in the engineers storeroom; it caused some excitement at the time, but was soon mastered. The tons of water that were poured down into the place gave the fire no chance. At Port Said, Sir Evelyn Wood and other officers of the Egyptian army joined us for London. By this time Arabi was a prisoner, and affairs were fairly quiet again, Port Said and all the surrounding country being in the hands of the British. While at Suez I learnt that I had been appointed 3^rd Officer of the “Zambesi” [?], then in the Venice-Alexandria line, and was to transfer at Port Said,, but not receiving any official intimation of this, of course no change took place, to my great satisfaction, for I was anxious to get to London. I heard afterwards that the letters conveying the instructions had missed a mail. On 26^th August we reached Plymouth and two days later London.

The bustle of arrival over, I sent in my resignation —1 Sept — and it was accepted, but not without my receiving a good lecture from one of the Managing Directors, — a friend of my fathers — on the folly of ^{[page 81]} two photos with captions Zig Zag Railway Sydney 1886 and South Head Road Sydney 1886 ^{[page 82]} leaving the company when I was getting on so well. I always look back upon my service in the4 P. & O. , with pleasure, it was a happy time throughout, and my only reason for leaving was the poor pay a sailor gets, and the uncertain prospects of the life.

Receiving very good references from the Company, I went home to Bedford, and my father and Archie being also at home, the whole family was together, an unusual occurrence.

1907

March 25

M^rs Lawry, Katie’s mother, arrived last week from Sydney by the P & O “Nimphia”. [?] on a visit to us. Katie and I went to meet her at the Tilbury Docks at night, a bitter wind blowing and rain. It was quite an awful experience and had decided us to meet no more steamers except in the summer.

May 31

For business reasons it is advisable that either Archie or I should go and live in Australia for some time at any rate and I have decided to go. London doubtless offers most scope for my particular abilities, but Archie does well enough. It is moreover well that he should have the opportunity to work by himself, and again I can better bear the cost of moving to the other side.

This all entails dealing with “Southwood”, and I have let this property to A. W. Lightbody for 3½ years at ₤110. The rent is less than the proper rate, ₤130, at least, but the tenant takes the place as it stands, so it works out to the same thing.

July 26

Left “Southwood” for 11 Porchester Terrace London W, where we are all boarding for a few days.

Aug 5

We are now all at Eastbourne at “Dunollie”, Silverdale Road; a furnished house which we have for six weeks at 6 gns.

I drove M^rs Lawry down from London and she did enjoy her first longish motor ride.

Aug 31

We are having a nice time down here. Edie is spending her holiday with us and we have had Charlotte Johnson for a fortnight. Lurline Scott Law and Arthur Hart have also paid us visits.

Archie and his family are down here, as are also Chas Lawry, Katie’s cousin, and his family and Hart’s sister and husband.

The weather has not been particularly warm and bathing [?] outside has not been attractive.

Sep 20

Came up from Eastbourne a few days since to 67 Crediton Road West Hampstead a furnished flat which we have at 6 gns till we sail.

Oct 20

Sailed today in the P & O. “India” Captain Vibert, our party being self, Katie, Ken, Alan, and M^rs Lawry.

The weather lately has been cold and grey and we are quite glad to be away.

As a general rule, one should leave England not later than the middle of September and when coming home should not arrive before early May.

The trip out has been a fine one and we have all kept pretty well.

Amongst the passengers are Lieut. Shackleton going for the South Pole in the “Minerva” [?], Norman Brookes, Tennis Champion of the world. , Frank Thornton, Comedian, and his company,, Harry Rickards, who runs the music halls in Sydney &c, and the English Labour Leader Keir Hardie joined us at Colombo.

We naturally had a fair amount of amusement on the trip.

Our sailing and arrival times have been as follows:–

Oct 25 1 pm Left Tilbury

“ 29 8 am Arrived Gibraltar

“ “ 1 pm Left Gibraltar

“ 31 11 am Arrived Marseilles

Nov 1 12 noon Left do.

“ 5 4 pm Arr^d Port Said

“ 6 1 pm Left do.

“ 7 5 am Passed Suez

“ 10 12 pm Arr^d Aden

“ 8 pm Left do.

Nov 16 5 pm Arr^d Columbo

Dec 5

Arrived at Sydney and went to “Wimmera” Alfred Street North Sydney, where we stayed on our previous visits.

1908

Mch 1

In January I went up to Brisbane in the “Oruba” returning by train after a ten days stay.

Our offices are in Brisbane and while I live in Sydney for preference I shall have to make occasional trips north.

I have taken an office in Sydney, one room, at Vickerys Chambers, Pitt Street, as I cannot attend to my correspondence at home.

On the 1^st Feb we left Wimmera for Araluen, Harison S^t Neutral Bay, which I have taken furnished for two months at 4½ gns a week.

In health we have been pretty well, but the boys have had colds and bad throats once or twice and Katie was in bed a few days with a very bad throat. I have also had the same thing two or three times.

The weather is continually hot enough but is relaxing.

Apr 1

Went to Brisbane for a fortnight during March, up in the “Asturias” and back by train.

Today we came to “Wilona” a furnished house with six acres of grounds at Greenwich which I have for 10 months at ₤3 a week.

May 31

We got the first noticeable cold on the 21^st inst, since when it has been mostly cold wet and dull.

Both the boys were in bed a few days with colds, Ken being away from school 3 weeks.

July 31

There has been a lot of cold weather the last two months therm from 40° to 52° and with strong winds, the 2^nd July being the coldest day for 10 years. On the 20^th inst it got warmer, 72°, but two days later it was cold again, 42°, with strong westerly.

Aug 31

In the early part of this month we had 14 consecutive days rain, 17 inches, with almost incessant strong S.E. gales, only saw the sun on two days. This is unusual.

Clear fine weather then lasted for 10 days covering the week during which the American fleet was in port.

This fleet, 16 battleships and several other vessels is the first of the kind that has visited Australia.

Sydney has been fêting the crews royally and it has been a week of reviews, and holiday making. With our motor car we were in good places at every function.

The Americans were well pleased with this country and a good many have deserted, it is reputed over 700 men out of nearly 13,000.

I have sad news from Archie to the effect that Father died on the 10^th [?] July. He had been ageing a good deal the last year, but was well up to a few days before his death, which was due to rheumatic gout.

He passed peacefully away, and by his own wish his body was cremated and the ashes place din our grave at Nunhead.

At his age he was in his 81^st year, our loss is a natural one, but I know that Archie and I feel it exceedingly. Archie tells me Father was talking about [ ] shortly before his death.

There have been numerous references to his death in the Australian & London press, and his old ship the “Sobraon”, now a training ship in Sydney had her flag at half mast.

He was born on 24^th Oct 1827, his father being Dr. Chas Elmslie, of Longside, Aberdeenshire.

He went to sea about 1843, I believe in a brig from Peterhead His earlier voyages were to the West Indies and the Gold Coast and he then became 3rd mate of a tea clipper, the “John Knox”. I saw a barque of this name in Townsville some years ago and from her history it was evidently the same vessel.

The voyage on this ship was an eventful one. The Captain had to be put ashore ill at Hongkong, and subsequently in bad weather, the chief mate was lost overboard, and the 2^nd mate so badly crippled as to be quite incapacitated

The command thus fell to my father then a very young man. He took her into port, Shanghai, bought spars [?] from other vessels and refitted his ship. He also had to take on and train a lot of Chinese sailors as most of his own men deserted.

With great difficulty he secured an officer to act as mate, and one of his seamen was rated as 2^nd mate.

Thus equipped my father got his ship home, and every rightly received substantial promotion.

He was subsequently an office in the “Plantagenet” and “Ramillies”, and was the 1^st officer of the “La Hogue” to Australia in the late fifties.

On one of these voyages he was put ashore ill with rheumatic fever at the island of S^t Helena and was there for some months in the hands of good friends. I saw the lady who nursed him on my first visit to this island.

He left the island in a ship commanded by Marmaduke Tatham, which led to his meeting and marriage with my mother in ‘59.

Marmaduke Tatham, my uncle, was subsequently lost at sea.

My father’s first command was in ’59, the ship “Albuera”, a China trader. After this he got the “Cospatrick” in which he did much trooping in Indian waters. I was at sea in both these ships and Archie was born on the latter.

In the “Cospatrick” father had his brother, Alick as 1^st mate, and on his leaving this vessel, my uncle took command. Some years later the “Cospatrick” was burnt at sea and out of over 500 people only 3 were eventually rescued. My uncle, his wife and son were all lost. I allude to this in the earlier part of this journal.

In ’67 my father was given command of the “Sobraon” then just returned from her first voyage.

This vessel he commanded until she was sold to the N.S. Wales Government in ’91, making one voyage a year, to Sydney until ’72 and thereafter to Melbourne.

The “Sobraon” was the largest and favourite passenger ship for several years and did well till the end. She is now ending her days well as a training ship in Sydney Harbour.

From his retirement in ’91 my father lived quietly in England first in Lancing then at Bedford for a few years and lately at SeaView, I of W, and London.

Father’s only brother was my Uncle Alick and his only sister died as a young girl unmarried.

My grandfather, D^r Chas Elmslie, who was killed by the Maories at Nelson N.Z. in about ’49, was the youngest of five sons.

The eldest two, John and Alick, went as young men to the United States. John subsequently returned and lived and died at Montrose, Scotland and I believe left some children, while Alec died at Philadelphia U.S.A. He left a good deal of money to his children.

The other two brothers, William and Henry were in the Navy & incidentally spent a year or two in French prisons. One was subsequently killed in action and the other was lost at sea. One only was married and had one child, who died single.

My great grandfather was an officer in the navy and was lost at sea.

Oct 31

The weather the last two months has been most changeable.

In early September very warm conditions came in, followed by cold, 40°, rain and trying winds for a few days. It was then warm and fine for some days, varied [?] by a sudden drop to 41°, one afternoon.

Hot fine weather then prevailed for over a week but then on the 30^th Sept cold rain & stormy wind came and lasted for some days. Overcoats & fires all started again.

From then conditions were generally fine & milder, with cold spells.

Nov 30

The month has been generally warm & fine. On the 7^th the temperature rose to 102° until a southerly blowing 68 miles an hour came up & sent the reading down to 40° in an hour. The weather kept cool for the next two days, about 58°, and then became hot again.

The last six months, covering the winter, have been generally typical Sydney weather, mostly bright and cheerful and cold to warm.

Both the boys had colds in June, Ken being in bed a day or so but they were soon right. In October however both were laid up again for two weeks with influenza.

I generally kept well enough, although the changes were often trying, but got a bronchial cold & mild flu late in August which kept me in doors three days. The effects being about me until the end of October but did not interfere with work &c.

There was a good deal of flu, bronchitis & rheumatism about all the time but particularly in September & October, the spring months.

Captain Hutton has been ailing for 2 months and a trip to Townsville did him no good. People were bed there with the same complaints. M^r Best was rather bad with bronchial asthma and several other friends were ill.

Nov 15

I have bought a house “Craignair”, [?] which we are rechristening “Aberdour”, in Shirley Road Wollstonecraft. It has an upper floor, large & comfortable rooms and stands in about half an acre of grounds with tennis court and a motor shed. I am replacing this last by a good motor house for two cars.

Whatever our movements may be later on it is comforting to have a good home here in case we elect to live on in Sydney, and it is a good investment if I want to let it. Being close to the Station and handy to the City and all parts it will always let and servants will not be so troublesome to get and keep.

30 [?]

Katie and I came up to Brisbane in the “Ophir” on the 17^th and also went back to Sydney via Toowoomba a few days later. I am on business.

Brisbane this time is more steamy and I have not felt the benefit of the change that I did on my last two visits.

The trouble here is to get proper exercise its too warm and there is nowhere to go the only golf links are a long way out as always, Brisbane again has the same depressing influence, it always seems so deadly quiet and dull and there is no look of prosperity about it or the people. The State is prosperous enough but so far it doesn’t show in the City, one wonders why there are not nice open air resorts with good music as there are in other places of similar climate, but there is really nothing, and the streets at night are always full of boys and girls up to no good.

As compared with Sydney the climate is more agreeable, but with it all, there is a considerable daily range in the cold season, and the continuous hear of the summer is not good.

1908 31 Dec

I returned to Sydney in the “Oruba” on the 5^th inst and on the 16^th we moved into “Aberdour”.

For the last few days the heat has been most oppressive, the therm. is not high, about 80°, but the air is so relaxing, I find it very difficult to work.

1909 31 Jan

The month started with a two days heat wave, therm. with us 104° in shade, Wahroonga 113°, Brisbane 107°, Bourke 125° with us the extreme was only for a short time and the nights were cool. The weather since has been nice enough generally, muggy sometimes, with cool changes, and at times windy.

1 Mch

I went up to Brisbane on the 20^th Feb, and got back to Sydney today. Trained both ways.

The journey to Brisbane is most irksome. The worst part of the journey comes when one is already tired, and the starting and arriving in the evenings are not to my taste. The trip from Brisbane is however alright

Never take an upper berth in the sleeper. The ventilation and swaying are both bad.

Since my last visit, F.H. Waldie has gone on the Brisbane Stock Exchange as representative of our company Q. M. L^d.

23

Since 1 Feb the weather has been variable, warm to cold alternately. The changes are at times trying.

I have noticed on several occasions that though not feeling well at home, I got much better on getting to town. Our house “Aberdour” is well placed, but the winds are fresher and moister, than in town, which may account for it. It is probably only certain winds or conditions that so affect, as I often keep quite right at home. At “Araluen” Neutral Bay I noticed the same thing, but at “Wilma” it was better. “Wilma” is certainly well open, but then we were only there in the winter months, and have only had the trying summer at “Araluen” and “Aberdour:

24 March

Sailed in the P&O “Malwa” [?], 12,000 tons, Captain Spicer, at noon. It is the first voyage of this ship. Katie & the two boys are staying at “Aberdour” during my trip to England. I don’t like leaving them, but it is necessary for me to see to business in London, the boys must now be at school, and Katie, the good mother she is, would not be happy away from them.

26

Arrived Hobart 8 am.

27

Sailed 3 pm. Hobart is pretty but would be quiet to live in. The weather even n now is cold, 50°, but it is better than the Sydney cold as it is the same all through and is not felt so much.

April 13

The ship picked up gastric influenza at Melbourne and I was one of the first to get a light attack, which took me 8 days to get over. There is a good deal of mild sickness going round the ship.

16 April

Arrived at Columbo 6 am 14^th and sailed 6 pm 15^th. Stayed at Galle Face [?] and went the usual drives, and there was a fine dance at the hotel.

1 May

Arrived at Marseilles 7 am.

The trip has been a pleasant one, many nice people, plenty of amusement, and dancing and a fancy dress ball. The sea has been like a lake right through. Aden was terribly hot and close, but two days after leaving there we ran into cool weather.

Two deaths occurred, the butcher falling dead one morning, and a passenger dying near Suez.

12

I left the ship at Marseilles and with J. W. Cay [?] of N.Q. & some others came quietly to Paris, stopped there a day then on to London and down to Sutton to stay with Archie for a couple of days.^thth

I am now up in town at the Morton Hotel, Russell Square. This is a very handy centre, but I fear will be too noisy.

I feel very string and fit after my trip.

Archie, Lil & their 3 children are all well, as are Edie & May though I have not yet seen the latter.

31 July

For the last 3 months I have been close at work living in London all the time but spending odd week ends at Sutton with Archie & Lil.

London life, theatres &c soon palls and is too inactive to suit me for long, either as to liking or health. The golf which I always get at Sutton makes me feel very fit.

Motor buses and taxis are now more numerous than horse buses & cabs.

18 Aug

I came down to Littlehampton on the 5^th inst & with Archie & his family have been staying at M^rs Gardner’s Country House, Beach Road, an excellent place in every respect.

Littlehampton is about the nicest small seaside town I have visited.